贞元是一个拥有近30年历史的珠宝品牌，其高端定位和时尚路线引导着全新展厅空间的功能需求设定与美学定向：如何在同一空间内对价位悬殊的珠宝进行陈列，为多圈层顾客提供服务；如何让空间更具包容性、做到“高端而不高冷”；如何使“老”品牌焕发新生，是F.O.G. 这次设计的三大挑战。
Zane Young Jewelry is a Yunnan Based Jewelry brand which has nearly 30 years of experience with high-end jewelry products. Its long-established status as a luxury brand and new outlook for more fashionable jewelry creations guide the functionality and aesthetics of Zane Young’s new brick-and-mortar in Kunming, China. Bearing in mind the divergent interests of a heterogeneous consumer group, we aim to create an inclusive store that accommodates products at varying price tiers, a space that is upscale but not aloof, and a fresh look that rejuvenates our client’s time-honored image.
▼门店外观，Store front © 言隅建筑空间摄影
对立与衔接
Contrast & Connection
F.O.G.首先通过分区和动线诠释几组对立与衔接。进门后，高级珠宝区映入眼帘，明确品牌定位；一转身来到设计首饰和钻石自选区，装饰品点缀其间；位于前厅正中央穹顶之下的艺术展厅则用来陈列融合了品牌最新设计的艺术级定制珠宝。
如此一来，人们既可以在相应区域选购，又能像游览博物馆般一边漫步一边欣赏高级珠宝工艺；原本分离的路径由此交叉，实现空间使用率的最大化。
▼轴测图，Axonometric drawing © F.O.G. Architecture
We first approach the partitioning and flow of the space as expressions of contrast and connection. Immediately after entrance is the display area for fine jewelry, to reaffirm the brand’s positioning. On the left are the areas for designer jewelry and diamonds. At the center is the gallery for exhibiting collection art jewelry and the house’s most recent custom designs.
In this way, people may shop in designated areas according to their interests or roam around the hall like in a museum. Their paths once separated now intersect, thereby maximizing the usability of the space.
▼向室内一瞥，A glance to the internal space © 言隅建筑空间摄影
▼高级珠宝区，Display area for fine jewelry © 言隅建筑空间摄影
前厅深处，收银台和珠宝保养工作台组成的过渡空间引入VIP室。这里藏有品牌顶级珠宝系列，空间影调与前场反差强烈。定制绒面地毯等大量软质材料的使用赋予空间柔软触感，同时具有良好的吸音效果，保证空间私密性。造型独特的Tacchini经典款Julep沙发和GUBI Pacha Lounge Chair让人产生倚靠的愿望，可以全然将这里当做会客厅般的家空间。珠宝展台则由大理石制成。
Deep inside, the cashier and care center lead our steps into the VIP lounge hidden behind. This is where the high jewelry, which reveals the house’s legacy and exceptional techniques in craftsmanship, is housed and exhibited. Its spatial tonality is sharply different from the front hall’s. The timeless and characterful designs of the Tacchini Julep Sofa and GUBI Pacha Lounge Chair add class and comfort to this private “living room.” While the display counters are made of marble, the sound-absorbing suede carpet and other soft materials create a gentle touch.
▼过渡空间，The transition space © 言隅建筑空间摄影
▼VIP室，The VIP lounge © 言隅建筑空间摄影
石材与绒面，是坚硬与松软的对抗；大理石天然纹路与波纹状地毯图案，却又是自然与人造的贯连——让人恍惚间仿佛漫步于银河，宝石亦化作行星。
While marble meets suede to create tension, the naturally formed texture on the former and customized pattern on the latter connect the nature and manmade.
▼室内细节，Interior details © 言隅建筑空间摄影
穹顶之下
Under the Dome
石料和矿物经过琢磨、抛光成为宝石，既是大自然的产物，也是人类创造力的结晶。F.O.G.在设计过程中溯源宝石本质，试图通过材料和颜色的运用以及符号的打造，反映其“璞真而稀有”的双重特性，希望从感官维度和空间意象入手，削弱宝石与数值间的关联，进而缩小不同人群与宝石间的距离。
Stones and minerals are cut and polished to make jewelry, which is a product of both the nature’s wonder and human creativity. Our design anchors itself to the essence of gemstone, aiming to reflect its crudeness and rarity through the applications of color and material as well as the establishment of visual symbols. By playing with sensorial dimension and spatial imagery, we intend to weaken the link between jewelry pieces and their prices, thereby allowing them to reach more customers.
▼高级珠宝展示区，display area for fine jewelry © 言隅建筑空间摄影
▼巨大的弧形穹顶作为空间的视觉中心
The huge dome as the absolute focal point of the space © 言隅建筑空间摄影
前场空间上、中、下层，若干撷自同一色系而质感微异的材料相碰撞；展柜布局规整，旨在弱化产品等级象征；材质使用和地面一样的罗马洞石，具有纹理丰富、质感粗糙等特点，呼应灰泥墙面。空间整体呼应大地、沙漠等广大而委实的自然界意象，似乎在借用眼前空间以提醒人们那宝石曾所属的时空。
The upper, middle, and bottom layers of the front use varied shades of an earthy color scheme and materials with slightly different qualities. The counters are arranged in a way that the division among different classes of jewelry becomes subtle. Like the floor, they are made of travertine, a material that has a rich texture and a rough touch. Similarly, the walls are covered in stucco. The space by and large evokes vast, concrete natural imageries such as the earth and desert, as if people are transported to the time and space where the jewelry came from.
▼艺术展厅，Gallery © 言隅建筑空间摄影
空间的视觉中心在于穹顶，某种意义上，它更是脱离天花板而独立存在的装置，是整个空间最具有冲击力的记忆点。巨大的弧形穹顶在金色质感漆的包裹下，随光线移动散发熹微光泽，接近庄严而并不凌冽。视觉上，穹顶表面并非完全平滑，分寸间的明暗差异透露着“华丽”与“内敛”的相互制约。
The dome is the absolute focal point of the space. Compared to a roof, it is more like a piece of installation attached to the ceiling, which has come into its own existence. The most visually striking and memorable part of the design, the dome is covered in gold texture paint which allows it to have a sacred, palatial quality without appearing detached or intimidating. It gives off a luster that changes with the position of light; but since the surface is textured and not entirely smooth, the sheen is soft and gentle, conveying a sense of inter-restriction between the glow and the humble shadow.
▼金色穹顶散发熹微光泽
The dome is covered in gold texture paint © 言隅建筑空间摄影
反常规的珠宝店设计
Breaking with Traditions
项目多处采取悖于传统珠宝店的设计手法。从外立面开始，F.O.G.便排除了开门见山的橱窗展示方式，只在巨大幅面上设置少处开窗。项目位于昆明「公园1903」商业街区，这里放眼可见成片的法式建筑集群，也意味着门面需要足够厚重才能在视觉上支撑起上方建筑，因此，F.O.G.追求含蓄、庄重而不乏现代性的表现方式。向内望去，展柜和穹顶隐约可见。
▼设计示意，Diagram © F.O.G. Architecture
In this project, we experiment with several unconventional methods. For example, the storefront does not rely on shopwindows like a traditional jeweler would. In consideration of the store’s location in Park 1903, a commercial complex imbued with French-style buildings, we want the storefront to have enough weight visually to support the buildings above and look for a subtle, mannered expression that is both solemn and modernistic.
▼不同于传统珠宝店，立面仅设置少处开窗，The storefront does not rely on shopwindows like a traditional jeweler would © 言隅建筑空间摄影
灯光方面，设计优先考虑人。出于销售目的，传统珠宝店常常是通明亮丽的，这会在一定程度上影响顾客体验，使人处于精神紧绷状态。因此，F.O.G.有的放矢地针对展柜位置采取重点照明，一方面让空间更加富有层次和意境，另一方面是品牌自信的体现。
The lighting prioritizes customer experience. Most traditional jewelers are entirely and brightly lit to affect customers’ first impression and the appearance of their products. However, such lighting could discomfort their eyes and brains, forcibly heightening attention. We thus adopt a more friendly and purposeful lighting strategy to spotlight the counters while largely reducing the amount of light elsewhere. Adding an artistic conception to the space, this arrangement also indicates the client’s confidence in its products.
▼重点照明使空间更加富有层次和意境，The purposeful lighting strategy brings artistic conception to the space © 言隅建筑空间摄影
软膜天花洒下的均匀灯光，如自然光照射在珠宝上，一个个展柜，亦是一个个空灵的小剧场。
The stretch ceiling evenly distributes light to mimic natural light showering down on the jewelry; each glass showcase becomes its own stage.
▼展柜，Display area © 言隅建筑空间摄影
▼室内细节，Interior view © 言隅建筑空间摄影
人类对珠宝的痴迷亘古存在，除了被闪亮物体本能吸引，更因为珠宝的美好寓意。这次项目中，F.O.G.在宝石的本质和张力背后寻找设计的答案，以此还原一份美好，打造一个不再被价码裹挟、雅俗共赏的空间。
Humans’ fascination with jewelry transcends time and space not only because it is our instinct to find shiny objects attractive but also because jewelry embodies hopes. In this project, we try to find the answer of our design in the tension behind jewelry’s once natural existence, hoping to create a space that breaks free from monetary value to be appreciated by all people.
▼夜间外观，Exterior view by night © 言隅建筑空间摄影
▼剖透视图，Sectional perspective © F.O.G. Architecture
项目位置：昆明
项目面积：280平方米
设计团队：吴雷蕾，邹德静，宋禹正，詹迪，郑宇，刘科妤 (实习)
软装顾问：张以倾
展柜定制：深圳市精奢品商业展具有限公司
灯光设计：璟祥盈照明
艺术品 (油画)：徐悲鸿，周春芽，王亚彬
摄影：言隅建筑空间摄影
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